San Francisco Frontiers - French eyewear maker in spotlight after presidential showing

Despite the hype, eyewear maker Henry Jullien has struggled in a declining French industry that was established in the eastern Jura region in the late 1700s, facing competition from far cheaper Asian manufacturers.

Henry Jullien's "Top Gun"-style shades with blue lenses and a silver frame, priced at 659 euros ($784), are now featured on the French presidency's online store.

Since last week's World Economic Forum in Switzerland, "we've been getting calls from all over the world, it's given us incredible publicity," said Stefano Fulchir, CEO of the Italian company iVision Tech which owns Henry Jullien.

More than 500 sunglasses have already been sold online -- a significant jump for the high-end brand that typically produces just a thousand pairs per year, including 200 of the aviator Pacific S01 model, in Jura.

The brand's website crashed with the surge in traffic so a temporary webpage dedicated solely to the presidential model was launched, while iVision Tech's stock soared 70 percent in a matter of days, Fulchir said.

Macron had ordered the sunglasses in 2024 "to give a gift to a minister during the G20" along with the pair for himself, Fulchir said.

Made with a gold wire, the aviators are crafted in an intricate 279-step process over four months.

"We pampered both pairs, of course," said Herve Basset, 60, who has spent more than half his life at Henry Jullien.

The eyewear makers all received thank-you letters from the president, recalled Karine Pelissard, who has spent 30 years in the trade.

- Shrinking industry -

The eyewear maker had about 180 employees 15 years ago but was down to just 15 when iVision Tech bought it in 2023, according to the mayor where the manufacturing facility is located.

Further cuts were made. Ten employees remain in Jura, iVision Tech said, and its site in the Italian town of Martignacco has had to take on the surge in orders.

To assure authenticity, Fulchir said the glasses are stamped with either "Made in France" or "Made in Italy" depending on which site they come from -- the "most important" labels in the eyewear world, signifying quality.

Yet Julien Forestier, head of the eyewear makers' union in Jura, said the buzz will "bring nothing" to the local industry.

"There are only a few companies left fighting for French manufacturing," and even opticians no longer really believe in the Made in France label anymore, he lamented.

While the sector still produces 2 million frames a year, there are only around 50 companies and about 800 employees in Jura, compared with 10,000 in the 1950s.

K.Gray--SFF