San Francisco Frontiers - India Hindu pilgrimage begins in contested Kashmir

Last year, half a million devotees took part in the Amarnath pilgrimage to a sacred ice pillar located in a cave in the forested Himalayan hills above the town of Pahalgam.

Pahalgam is the site of an April 22 militant attack during which gunmen killed 26 mostly Hindu tourists.

New Delhi said the gunmen were backed by Pakistan, claims Islamabad rejected -- triggering a series of tit-for-tat diplomatic measures that escalated into a four-day conflict.

It was the worst standoff by the nuclear-armed nations since 1999, with more than 70 people killed in missile, drone and artillery fire on both sides, before a May 10 ceasefire.

But pilgrim Muneshwar Das Shashtri, who travelled from Uttar Pradesh state, told AFP "there is no fear of any kind".

"Our army is standing guard everywhere. No one can raise a finger towards us," he said.

India has ramped up security for the event, deploying 45,000 troops with high-tech surveillance tools overseeing the gruelling trek to reach the high-altitude cave dedicated to the Hindu deity of destruction Shiva.

"We have multi-layered and in-depth security arrangements so that we can make the pilgrimage safe and smooth for the devotees," said VK Birdi, police chief for the Muslim-majority territory.

At Pahalgam, soldiers have turned a tented base camp into a fortress encircled by razor wire.

Troops in newly deployed armoured cars, or from gun positions behind sandbags, keep a close watch -- efforts boosted by facial recognition cameras.

"High-quality surveillance cameras have been installed at all major points along the route," said Manoj Sinha, the Indian-appointed top administrator for Jammu and Kashmir.

All pilgrims must be registered and travel in guarded vehicle convoys, until they start out to walk.

Camouflaged bunkers have been erected in the forests along the route, where dozens of makeshift kitchens provide free food.

Electronic radio cards pinpoint their location.

Pilgrims can take several days to reach the cave, perched at 3,900 metres (12,800 feet) high, around 30 kilometres (18 miles) uphill from the last easily motorable track.

"Whatever the attack that was carried out here, I am not afraid. I have come to get a glimpse of baba (the ice formation)" said Ujwal Yadav, 29, from India's Uttar Pradesh state, undertaking his first pilgrimage to the shrine.

"Such are the security arrangements here that no one can be hurt."

Sinha has said that "public confidence is returning", but admits that pilgrim registration had dipped by 10 percent this year.

O.Anderson--SFF