San Francisco Frontiers - Indian haute couture presence 'overdue', says designer Manish Malhotra

Malhotra, 59, became the fourth Indian designer after Rahul Mishra, Gaurav Gupta and Vaishali S to join the official Paris calendar this week, considered the most elite stage of the global fashion industry.

The best-known European houses from Chanel to Christian Dior have long relied on Indian embroiderers and textile makers for their spectacular one-of-a-kind creations.

But Indian designers are now harnessing home-grown artisans to challenge the Parisian tastemakers in a business that traditionally served royalty, but now caters to celebrities and other global VIPs.

"I think it was long overdue," Malhotra told AFP, a day after presenting an intensely personal collection of highly structured dresses in Paris -- all a tribute to his recently deceased mother.

"India is so culturally rich in terms of texture and textile, architecture, jewels, embroidery. It has such a heritage of kings and queens.

"You know, I think it was high time," he added.

France's Haute Couture and Fashion Federation (FHCM) has been actively diversifying the labels present in Paris, inviting designers from outside Europe and the West.

Malhotra admitted to feeling nervous before his first show on Wednesday, which was entitled "Maa" and reflected Malhotra's deep bond with his mother whom he lost just three months ago.

"There's nothing bigger than Paris Haute Couture. This is the ultimate platform," he said.

While preparing, "I kept coming back to my mother's story, and at one point I said, 'you know what, Paris doesn't know me, and if they are going to know me, they have to know what I'm feeling right now'," he explained.

"And honestly, I'm still very affected by losing her."

The opening outfit was a dramatic full-length coat featuring sculptures of a boy and his mother at different life stages, while another dress featured elaborate cut-outs of a mother and boy on the front who embraced as the model moved.

Born into a middle-class family in Mumbai, Malhotra started out making costumes for Bollywood before moving into couture and bridalwear.

His decision to show in Paris underlines his growing international ambitions, having launched separate jewellery and beauty lines, as well as his first overseas boutique in Dubai in 2023.

He also became a viral sensation after this year's Met Gala having arrived wearing a jacket and cape featuring scuptural and embroidered tributes to Mumbai.

He has also dressed US superstars from Rihanna to Jennifer Lopez.

"After 35 years of working, what's the next challenge for me?" he said.

"Maybe an atelier in Paris, maybe a store in New York?"

F.Edwards--SFF