San Francisco Frontiers - Dior nods to Hollywood's Golden Age with Cruise collection

At the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), Anderson -- who took the creative reins at Dior last year -- presented a runway show inspired by Hollywood glamour, with nods to the natural beauty of California.

Singers Sabrina Carpenter and Miley Cyrus, and actors Al Pacino, Jeff Goldblum, Anya Taylor-Joy and Macaulay Culkin were among the celebrities who attended the glitzy extravaganza in LACMA's newly opened David Geffen Galleries.

The audience was transported to the set of a classic detective film, with colorful vintage cars placed amidst the museum's stark concrete curves and moody lighting.

Models emerged from the smoky haze in effervescent hues of yellow, purple, and orange.

The collection explores the French house's historical relationship with Hollywood, taking as its starting point the ultimatum Marlene Dietrich gave to director Alfred Hitchcock before the filming of "Stage Fright" in the late 1940s: "No Dior, no Dietrich!"

Just like the legendary actress's wardrobe, Dior's show late Wednesday exuded glamour and female empowerment.

Flowers played a prominent role, with a spray of daffodils bursting from one skirt or the red-orange petals of California's poppy, the state flower, cascading down a dress.

Jackets also had their place on the runway in shades of black, gold, and silver.

A striking gray-striped coat featured geometric shadows that mimicked light filtering through Venetian blinds, appearing as if it had practically materialized from a black and white film.

The new version of the brand's signature saddle bag, inspired by vintage American cars, complemented the outfits.

- Nostalgia -

The nostalgic tone of the collection was captured by some attendees who praised the juxtaposition of pieces, resulting in fluid, less cinched silhouettes reminiscent of 1940s Hollywood.

Anderson, former artistic director of the Spanish fashion house Loewe, in June 2025 became the first designer since Christian Dior to oversee all three lines (women's, men's, and haute couture) for the legendary French house.

Following an acclaimed first menswear collection in June and a less enthusiastically received first womenswear collection in October, Anderson presented a second, more extravagant menswear collection in the French capital in January.

Then, for his first haute couture collection, the 41-year-old Northern Irish designer presented a line with punk touches and floral accents, true to his rebellious spirit.

Like Dior, nominated for an Oscar in 1955 for the costumes in "Indiscretion of an American Wife," Anderson has built a connection with Hollywood, contributing to productions such as "Challengers" (2024), starring Zendaya and directed by Luca Guadagnino.

Dior holds its Cruise, or resort, shows in different locations each year, showcasing the luxury house's designs in new locales.

The transitional collection debuted last year in Rome, after shows in Scotland and Mexico. This special runway show last took place in Los Angeles in 2017.

R.Baker--SFF