San Francisco Frontiers - K-pop kings BTS rock Seoul in comeback concert

Widely lauded as the biggest boy band in the world, BTS went on hiatus in 2022 so the seven members could serve compulsory stints in the South Korean military.

The comeback concert by the group at the vanguard of the Korean cultural wave was staged on the doorstep of the historic Gyeongbokgung royal palace -- a fitting venue for the "Kings of K-pop".

Enormous crowds of fans -- 260,000 were predicted before -- descended on Seoul from morning onwards in colourful costumers, taking selfies and clutching BTS "ARMY" glowsticks.

Before they came on stage fans chanted "BTS! BTS!" with the main boulevard leading up to Gwanghwamun Square -- the symbolic heart of the Seoul -- ram-packed with people as far as the eye could see.

"Hi Seoul, we are back," one of the group said.

Gwanghwamun Gate was lit in rainbow colours, as a massive stage installation featuring three circular features -- symbolising BTS's new album -- glowed beneath towering lighting rigs.

Lee Yeon-seo, 36, a South Korean who travelled from the southern city of Jeonju, was one of those who arrived early.

"My seat is actually toward the front, near the main stage, so I'm even more excited thinking I'll get to see them up close," she told AFP.

"With the tour kicking off in April, this is the beginning of their new journey. In a way, it feels like an honour to experience it live like this, more vividly than most people."

"I'm from Australia so I came down to Korea for the culture and for the BTS concert, just to see," Gloria Moloney, 22, told AFP.

Potentially millions more across the world will tune in to see a Netflix live broadcast.

In a last-minute setback, the group's agency said Friday that BTS leader RM hurt his ankle in rehearsals and that his "participation in certain performance elements, such as choreography on stage, will be restricted."

The group was expected to perform their latest album, "ARIRANG", which was released on Friday and is billed as a reflection of the maturing boy band's Korean identity.

The album sold almost four million copies in the first day, BTS's record label said. Five million fans pre-saved it on Spotify, the most ever for a K-pop act.

"ARIRANG" takes its name from a folk song about longing and separation that is often dubbed South Korea's unofficial national anthem.

Featuring collaborations with multiple Western artists and producers, the 14 tracks on the album mix rap, heavy beats and experimentation.

"Compared to their earlier work, there's a wider range of genres, which gives it a more mature and expansive feel," impressed fan Lee Ji-young, a university professor, told AFP.

"As always, their lyrics are honest, and through a diverse range of sounds, they give a clear sense of who they are and where they stand right now."

Another fan on Reddit wasn't so impressed.

"I hope they sing some of their old stuff," they said.

- Safety measures criticised -

Saturday's show precedes an 82-date world tour expected to deliver a major economic boost at home and abroad, potentially outdoing Taylor Swift's recent Eras Tour.

By Saturday afternoon, the area surrounding the palace was heavily secured with police buses and personnel.

Seoul police told AFP that police vehicles will transport wedding guests affected by the traffic disruptions.

Nearby buildings had their entrances closed, and barricades lined the main roads. Local museums and metro stations were shut.

Medical booths had been set up, while fans in purple -- symbolising BTS's fandom -- and carrying merchandise happily streamed in.

Police inspections, including bag checks at multiple points, led to long queues along the roads.

About 6,700 police officers, along with 8,200 security staff from the Seoul city government and the group's agency HYBE were deployed.

The safety measures have drawn some criticism, particularly following reports that workers were forced to take annual leave and that civil servants were deployed on their day off to assist with the event.

- Resilience -

The concert is taking place in Seoul's sweeping Gwanghwamun Square beside Gyeongbokgung. Built in 1395, the former royal palace is often seen as a symbol of Korean resilience through dynastic collapse, colonial rule and pro-democracy protests.

BTS -- short for Bulletproof Boy Scouts in Korean -- have championed UNICEF campaigns, the Black Lives Matter movement and efforts to combat anti-Asian racism.

Members have also spoken candidly about the pressures of the music industry.

Their message "has always centred around self-reflection, resilience and courage to keep moving forward, even when life feels uncertain", Carmen Low, 32, a fan in Malaysia, told AFP.

"In many ways, those themes feel just as relevant -- if not more -- in 2026.

"Their return could be a reminder of those values, encouraging conversations about identity, dreams, mental health, and what it means to grow up in a complex world," she told AFP.

X.Roberts--SFF