San Francisco Frontiers - Vietnam designer makes history as Paris Haute Couture wraps up

Phan thrilled the fashion scene at a venue in western Paris, having had a whirlwind rise into the world's most exclusive design club since creating his eponymous label in 2023.

His airy Spring/Summer 2026 collection of evening dresses made abundant use of light muslin and tulle fabric, as well as hand-stitched floral and beaded embellishments, all inspired by Vietnam's former royal Nguyen dynasty.

"I'm very happy and very proud because I can represent and bring the culture and creativity of Vietnam to the world," Phan told AFP earlier this week.

As well as being the youngest, he is the first Vietnamese designer on the programme.

Although Vietnam is well-known as a manufacturing hub for mass-market Western clothes, Phan's business partner Steven Doan stressed that the duo "want to prove that we can do fashion as well".

Phan has been fast-tracked into a field that is becoming increasingly diverse under the impulse of the French fashion federation, FHCM.

The last day of Haute Couture Week included shows by Saudi label Ashi Studio as well as Syrian designer Rami Al Ali, who joined the official schedule for the first time last year.

- Debuts -

The most-followed events of the last four days have been the Haute Couture debuts of new Chanel and Dior designers Matthieu Blazy and Jonathan Anderson, who took over the labels last year.

The two 40-something contemporaries were promoted as part of a vast overhaul of creative director positions in the European luxury clothing sector in the last 12 months.

Seen as new generational talents, the Franco-Belgian and Northern Irish designers have the daunting task of modernising some of the most venerable and profitable labels in fashion.

Blazy turned to birdlife for inspiration for his collection, producing designs that made waves for appearing both wearable and relatable -- and modelled by an unusual number of older models.

A-listers from actor Nicole Kidman and singer Dua Lipa to rapper A$AP Rocky sat in the front row.

The Business of Fashion website called it a "slam dunk", while Paris-based fashion commentator Diane Pernet told AFP it was "everything that couture is supposed to be."

Anderson has had more mixed appraisals, with some critics seeing the more risk-taking designer as still searching for a clear identity for his LVMH-owned mega-brand.

Singer Rihanna was full of praise for the son of a rugby player backstage, telling him that the "show took my breath away. People were stunned", according to a video of the encounter posted online by a fashion journalist.

Y.Gomez--SFF