San Francisco Frontiers - No way home for Eid as jihadists cut off Mali capital

Originally from the central city of Mopti, Alpha Amadou, 40, has had to give up his usual journey home for the major holiday, known locally as Tabaski.

"For the first time in 30 years living in Bamako, I'll be celebrating Eid here this year," he told AFP.

Since late April, fighters from Al-Qaeda's Sahel branch have imposed a road blockade on the main routes into Bamako, torching dozens of buses and freight trucks.

Though the blockade is only partial, images of charred vehicles have deterred many transport services from operating and travellers from heading back to their villages.

In Mali, Tabaski goes far beyond religion. It is a major social tradition, one of the few times when families, often scattered by work for months, come together.

But in Bamako's bus stations, the usual pre-holiday rush has given way to an eerie calm. Alongside insecurity, fuel shortages have also hit the transport sector.

"Not only do we lack diesel to keep running, but we've also lost buses in recent incidents. It's a huge economic blow," said the owner of a local travel agency, speaking anonymously.

"Normally, we could transport more than 50,000 people from Bamako to other regions in a week for Tabaski. This year, we're not planning any trips," added a manager at another transport company.

For Wara Bagayoko, the ritual has always been the same: pack up the family car and head to Segou in central Mali to celebrate together.

But this time, he will stay behind, as even private cars have become targets.

"It will be the first time in 30 years I won't celebrate in my village. The road is too dangerous," he said.

"Before, about 20 of us would travel together on motorbikes to Sikasso (in the south) to celebrate," added Oumar Diarra. "This year, we'll stay in Bamako."

A few minibuses still slip into the city, taking backroads or travelling with a military escort.

- Sheep in short supply -

The disruption to transport is also choking the livestock trade, which is essential for the traditional Tabaski sacrifice.

Because of the blockade, herders and traders are struggling to bring animals to Bamako, the country's main consumer market.

The cost of transporting one animal, usually around 2,500 to 2,750 CFA francs (almost $5), has jumped this year to between 15,000 and 18,000 CFA francs ($26-$31), said transporter Alassane Maiga.

As a result, sheep are scarce and far more expensive in a country where the monthly minimum wage is just 40,000 CFA francs.

"Many trucks of sheep have been burned by jihadists... Normally, I'd have more than 1,000 animals, but today, not a single one," said Bamako vendor Hama Ba.

"Sheep we used to buy for 75,000 francs are now going for 300,000. Before, there was plenty to choose from, but now they've almost vanished from Bamako," said Iyi, who was searching for one he could afford.

- Power cuts -

The security crisis is creeping into daily life, as basic services break down in the city.

Bamako is struggling with prolonged power outages and major shortages of drinking water.

Festive outfits known as "Selifini" remain unfinished in tailors' workshops, held up by the frequent power cuts.

"We tried using a small solar panel," said dressmaker Alou Diallo. "But it can't replace electricity."

Families are also worried about storing food for the celebration.

"How are we supposed to keep meat without electricity? Buying an expensive sheep only to lose it within 24 hours due to power cuts is a real fear," said a mother on the outskirts of Sirakoro.

In recent days, authorities have announced the arrival of hundreds of fuel tankers in the capital, offering some hope of relief.

But for many, the road home for Eid has already shut.

X.Roberts--SFF