San Francisco Frontiers - Women sommeliers are cracking male-dominated wine world open

Now an established figure as resident wine advisor at Chambers restaurant in New York, Pascaline Lepeltier told AFP that when she first started out "a certain male clientele of a certain age didn't trust me" -- or would ask to see the real sommelier.

Argentina's Paz Levinson, who is in charge of wine at renowned French chef Anne-Sophie Pic's eateries, said she faced similar experiences in France.

"When I arrived in France, there were clients who tended to prefer a male sommelier, and a French one," the 47-year-old explained.

But now, more than 20 years into their professional careers, both women say the landscape has become more welcoming for women like them.

"Things have evolved in terms of gender balance. It’s not parity, but we're getting there," said Lepeltier, 44.

She remains the only woman to have been named Best Sommelier of France and she came fourth at the World's Best Sommelier competition in 2023.

But fewer than 10 percent of candidates at the latter competition are women, echoing the way men still pick up the vast majority of gastronomic awards such as Michelin stars or the top positions in "Best Of" lists.

Some women have broken through in the World’s Best Sommelier, with Canadian Veronique Rivest finishing second in 2013, Denmark's Nina Jensen ending runner up in 2019 and 2023, and Frenchwoman Julie Dupouy clinching third in 2016.

But none has yet won the title, which will be handed out next October in Lisbon.

"We still have the top spot to claim as the world's best sommeliers. We're keeping a lot of hope," said Levinson.

- 'Doesn't matter' -

If the 1970s-1980s saw a few pioneering female sommeliers emerge, the real opening of the profession came "about 20 years ago", according to Fabrice Sommier, president of the French Sommeliers Union (UDSF).

Today, women account for nearly half of those in training in France and a new generation of female sommeliers is rising in top restaurants, spurred by sweeping societal changes that have broken down gender barriers.

"I've always behaved as if being a man or a woman didn't matter. It's passion that brings us together," said Agnese Morandi, sommelier at the two-star Table in Paris.

The 28-year-old Italian trained with Levinson, who "opened her mind" to non-alcoholic pairings -- a field she had never explored with her male supervisors.

It's an approach that still inspires her today, notably through the tea list she offers at Table.

- Real difference? -

There remains the question of whether gender differences lead men and women to perform the role differently.

For Alexandre Lesieur, a teacher at the Ecole de Paris des Métiers de la Table (EPMT), an elite catering school, the answer is yes.

Women "venture more into regions or products that are more niche" and suggest pairings that are "a bit gentler", he claims.

"I wouldn't say we have a different approach," counters Pauline Monclus, one of his apprentices, 25. "Everyone truly has their own personality, men and women alike."

After finishing fourth two years ago, Lepeltier is hoping she can do better at the World's Best Sommelier competition next year.

"Equality isn't here yet, and there are still unacceptable behaviours. But we're also much more supported and surrounded today than 20 years ago," she concludes, choosing to see the glass as half full.

S.Hall--SFF